Tuesday, March 11, 2014

The CliffsNotes

Things you should know about Puerto Rico:
1 - The drivers are insane.  There are no lanes for motorcycle drivers.  A car will never slow down to let you in.  It's kill or be killed, eat or be eaten.
2 - There has never been a ferberized baby.  Ever. These families are sooooo close. Everyone pitches in.  Siblings take care of younger siblings.  Everyone helps out.  The love is everywhere you look.
3 - Gringos tailgate.  Puerto Ricans BBQ.  And they do it everywhere. The beach, public parks.  The entire family comes out with fantastic foods and table and chairs and balloons and music and volleyball and soccer. We could take a page from their book the next time we spend an afternoon out with a sandwich, a bottled water, and a frisbee.
4 -  It's expensive.  Nearly everything on the island is imported.  Food, clothing, furniture, you name it.  Be prepared for sticker shock.
5 - Artists are celebrated!! Everyone plays an instrument or paints or dances or acts.  Everywhere you look there is art and sculpture.  Aesthetics of public parks and buildings is of the utmost importance.  In Old San Juan there is a beautiful large building with three floors, and on Saturday mornings there are music, voice, instrument, sculpture, painting, dance lessons taking place throughout the building.  Mom and son carry their instruments to their lessons in the beautiful outdoor courtyard.  Father and daughter carry their sketch pads from class.  A group of people of all ages walks around the plaza taking photographs with their professor.  I found so little to do with sports and so much to do with the arts - it was fabulous!!
6 - Everybody dances.  I mean everybody.  When Jon is saying, "OMG.  I need to learn to dance."  Then you know it is everywhere.  Men leading women through tornado like spins.  If there is music playing, there is dancing.
7 - There is always music playing, and there is only one volume for Latin Music - deafeningly loud.  Perfect example - in Guavate there are Lechoneras.  These are restaurants for pork on a spit.  They line the streets. Saturday afternoon each one of them has a live band.  And they are blasting the speakers, people are dancing, eating, drinking, and enjoying the afternoon.
8 - Puerto Ricans celebrate everything.  There are festivals, spontaneous parties, and fireworks on any given day at any given time.
9 - Use GPS, paper maps, oral directions from locals and your instincts to get around.  Once you get out of Old San Juan it is a maze worse than Boston to get to and from places.  Jon did well, but I was always in some state of being lost.
10 - It is completely safe and cops are so friendly.  They take serve and protect to a whole new level.  You feel completely secure with them on every corner, and they'll help you find a good restaurant!
11 - It's breathtakingly beautiful.  The bright sun, the crystal clear water, the architecture. And it's as spectacular underwater as above.  First class snorkeling and scuba, and don't forget the glow in the dark biobay!
12 - You don't need to know Spanish to get around.  But if you read my prior blog, you'll have a much better time getting to know people if you at least try to learn the language.
13 - Puerto Rican food is indulgent.  It's a lot of fried, salty, heavy carb food.  Takes comfort food to a whole new level.  These people know nothing other than to completely enjoy life.  It isn't a journey for a fitness model, but you'll be having such a great time - who cares.  Eat up and then take a long walk in the perfect 85 degree sun.

On my last day in Puerto Rico, I took my usual walk to the beach to get in my final workout.  When I got there, I decided that sitting and meditating and taking in every sound and sensation was more of what my mind, body, and soul needed.  On the walk back , stopping in front of the capitol building and looking at the ocean crashing into the rocks, I cried and cranked U2's Beautiful Day on my phone.  Puerto Rico is one of many locations Jon and I will visit exploring this large and fantastic planet.  But your first always has a special place in your heart.  Thank You, Puerto Rico for being the best "first" we could have ever hoped for.

From Puerto Rico: Enjoy.




























Monday, March 10, 2014

Likes Long Walks on the Beach

With its strategic location, Puerto Rico gave us access to many of the Caribbean islands.  We had fun traveling to Viques for Scuba and a glow in the dark fish adventure with Allie and Caroline. So, Jon and I decided to take our own weekend getaway to another neighboring island, Culebra.

Instead of the very economical, but highly unpredictable ferry, we opted to fly.  I knew it would be a small plane, but I had no idea how small.  These planes fit a maximum of 8 passengers.  As with any new experience, I had a mix of feelings from curiosity to excitement to fear.  I was happy to discover that we were seated right behind the pilot and not in the middle of this tin can.
Our plane!
As soon as the plane left the ground, all of my fears went away and the desire to become a pilot set in!  I must mention that I did have the perfect first experience: great seats, impeccable weather, and fantastic views.  Flying so low over beautiful islands and crystal clear water is absolutely breathtaking.  And when you compare 1 hour of seasickness on a ferry to 15 minutes of glorious flight - it's no contest.
The view from the plane - spectacular.

I made arrangements for simple accommodations on the island in a studio room.  To our delight, the owner called us and asked if we would be okay staying in a larger place for the same price.  Um, yah! We stayed in a newly renovated boathouse with kitchen, bath, bedroom, large deck and parking.  Mentioning parking brings me to transportation.  The island is very tiny, and if you were extremely ambitious you could walk the whole thing.  However, hauling a cooler, beach towels, and snorkel gear; we opted for the preferred method of transportation - golf carts.  These are no ordinary golf carts. Gas powered with ATV wheels, they get you everywhere you could want to go.  And after driving a minivan on small cobblestone streets in Old San Juan, I was thrilled to buzz around in this easy to maneuver and park funmobile.




Culebra was 2 1/2 days of simple relaxation.  We started each day with strong coffee and a hike to remote snorkeling beaches.  I worked out on the beach and Jon swam with 10 foot stingrays and other creatures of the sea.  We would head back to town for breakfast and bathing suits, and spend the remainder of the day on the fabulous Flamenco Beach.  We foodies enjoyed an elegant dinner, and each other's undivided attention.  When you meet the love of your life and you instantly have a family of 5, these times to be off on our own are priceless.






I feel like I should give you some crazy story or adventure, but there isn't one to tell.  Just an easy breezy romantic weekend with the man of my dreams.










One last detail: the flight back was even MORE exciting than the flight there.  On the return trip, I got to sit in the co-pilot's seat.






From Puerto Rico: We have reached a very comfortable cruising altitude.
 

Thursday, February 6, 2014

SanSe 2014



San Sebastian street - packed
When you mention that you will be in Old San Juan, Puerto Rico in January to anyone from Puerto Rico, their immediate response is, "Oh, so you'll be here for SanSe."  Then their face changes, and they go into a list of negatives about the event.  It's loud, dangerous, dirty, full of drunks.  Go out in the morning, see all the artists, and then lock your doors after noon. There are so many people you are going to get separated and lost... The stories and the advice went on and on.  You would think this was only coming from the older generation who couldn't keep up with the antics of a late teen, early 20 something crowd - but no.  As I talked to younger people in and around San Juan, they all said that they avoid the festival. 

Well, this didn't bode well as Jon and I had no way of avoiding the festival, we live on San Sebastian Street which is where the whole thing takes place!
It is a 4 day event with 4 stages for live music and performances, 100's of booths for artisans selling their pieces, 100's of booths for food vendors, and every bar and restaurant is open day and night (almost). Parades start everyday around 4:00.

Let's start with the parades...
Shows during the day.
Trying on a new look.

The parades are a combination of organized processions including different community groups, stilt dancers, giant heads, musicians, and impromptu bands or performers who just have enough people to march down San Sebastian Street and get the crowd hyped.  Both types are a blast.  The music and the energy of the people is infectious, and the crowd is ready to join in at a moment's notice.  People bring their instruments including drums and horns and indigenous percussive tools to the SanSe festival the way we would carry a water bottle, "Gonna need this when we get there!"

The artists are fantastic.  Selling jewelry, sculpture, leather goods, glassware, clothing, paintings; you name it, and it was for sale at the festival on every end of the financial spectrum.  The food is typical street food, there's a lot of grease and sugar and it's really good for soaking up alcohol.  Yes, it is a street festival and drinking in the streets is allowed.  Medalla (beer) and Gasolina (punch with alcohol) are the national drinks of PR.  And they are sponsors of the festival.  We had to partake!
Transportation in and out of the city is by public bus only.  You must park your car 1 - 2 miles outside of Old San Juan in a garage and then take a bus or walk into the city. The buses get crowded and the weather is perfect , so many people choose to walk. The streets leading into the city are packed as well as all of the streets in the old city.  The festival hosts 500,000 people in four days.

Loving it!
Jon, making a new friend.

So what did we think?  We loved it! It was certainly a luxury having an apartment to retreat to when you needed a bathroom or a little space, but we had a great time.  Friday night we checked out all of the stages, and settled on one with DJ's.  Storm Trooper was the first and Jon's favorite.  Badass was the second and my favorite.  We danced and drank and made friends.
DJ Storm Trooper lighting it up!

Saturday we headed to the artisan booths which were packed.  We helped the economy as good tourists should.

Keeping everything fun and safe.
What impressed us the most was that there was no fighting or rude drunks or filthiness as detailed in the prophecies we had heard.  Everyone was happy and dancing and hanging out.  And the best part, every night at 2:00 am the Police SHUT IT DOWN.  Everything closes, everyone has to get to a bus or ferry or be walking out of town.  Then the elves come out.  The elves get rid of all of the trash, all of it.  They wash all the streets with water and sanitizer.  Everything is shiny and new every morning when you wake up.  And when the festival is completely over, the elves take down the stages and remove all of the booths in the middle of the night.  Absolutely incredible!

From Puerto Rico - energy drinks, we don't need no stinking energy drinks!

Stranger in a (not so) Strange Land

As any child or adult can attest being the new one in class or on the job is always a little difficult, a little awkward, a little insecurity inducing.  But when you don't have a new class or a new job to report to, it does present a unique challenge when trying to make friends.  This is where Jon and I found ourselves here in PR. Jon is working remotely from his office - no new people to meet here.  And I am not working.  2 months. Hmmmmm....  Tick tock.....  Crickets.....
You have no choice but to just put yourself out there.  It started during football season.  The only place in town that had the Patriot's games was Chicago Burger.  The night of Pats vs. Denver (I know, don't remind you) we met Julio there with his brother and niece cheering on the Broncos.  Many beers and a Denver win later we exchanged phone numbers.  Julio is a gregarious, generous Puerto Rican who must have inherited these traits from his mother.  We were meeting him for drinks and on the table were Pasteles - a pork dish cooked in banana leaves that are a favorite here.  He told his mother he was meeting his new friends from Maine, and she sent these for us to have.  Yummm!  In addition to keeping us well fed, Julio has offered guidance for getting around the island, and the above and beyond moment was getting a doctor's appointment for a friend of mine who was catching her cruise ship here in Puerto Rico and experiencing eye troubles.  Now that's a friend!
Pasteles
During the SanSe festival, I was having trouble translating the quote on a piece of art work.  Jorge walked up and offered his bilingual assistance.  Ten minutes later I am laughing and chatting with he and his fiance Arelis. Arelis is a Spanish teacher by day, and a (wait for it....) Ballet teacher in the evenings!
While Jon was away in NYC, I took the initiative once again to just GO OUT and meet people.  There is a bar across the street from my house, and I went in and ordered myself a drink.  By the end of the night, I was discussing Puerto Rican and Cuban history and culture in a mix of Spanish and English with my 73 year old drinking companion, Tuti, and Doctoral candidate/Bartender, Eduardo.
But the real watershed moment came one night on my way back from Yoga.  My phone is buzzing with text messages from Jorge and Arelis wanting to get together for drinks, I walk by the bar and Eduardo yells, "Tina! Hola!"  and our landlord and his wife stop their car to pull over and tell me they'll be around tonight if Jon and I want to hang out.
Our apartment
From Puerto Rico - 
You wanna go where people know, 
people are all the same, 
You wanna go where everybody knows 
your name.

Using Your Native Tongue

It was Jon's idea that we travel to a Spanish speaking country.  I don't say this in a blaming way, I love it here!  And I love being somewhere with people and places that are different from my daily surroundings.  I say this, because prior to traveling to Italy last year, I learned a little - let's keep it real - very little Italian. But while we were there for 10 days, I had enough Italian and Spanish to get us meals, rooms, purchases, and some new friends.  If you know Jon, you know that he is a quiet man in general and tends to let me do the talking. So when he mentioned that he wanted to spend two months in a Spanish country, I suggested he learn the language.
In true Jon fashion, he went all in.  While we were still in Maine, he spent an hour a day using Rosetta Stone. He also worked with a Skype tutor from Mexico for an hour two times per week.  Arriving in Puerto Rico, we quickly found a teacher, and we now have lessons with her for an hour twice a week.
Jon and our Maestra, Elsa
As anyone will tell you, learning a language has many pieces to the puzzle.  We work with our teacher, we have workbooks with exercises, note cards and post-its label the entire apartment, and we are still using Rosetta Stone several hours per week.  The other challenge is to get out there and speak.

Verbs for use in the kitchen
Some adjectives
And don't forget useful expressions.
I took 4 years of High School Spanish and two semesters in college.  The most impactful language experience I have ever had was 10 days in Ecuador when I was 15 years old.  Immersion is a trial by fire in learning a language.  Your brain needs to stop translating and searching for words and you are forced to open your mouth and speak and use sign language/mime and listen actively for phrases.  And so, I am comfortable doing just that when we travel to a non-English speaking destination.  Jon, well, he took Latin. And remember the part about him being quiet in English?  Yah, this has been way outside of his comfort zone.  But, I must say how genuinely impressed I am by him. The truth of the matter is, you do not need to speak Spanish in order to get around here.  90% of the island is bilingual.  Jon could have taken the easy way out, but he knows he would have missed out.

Learning a foreign language is a selfless, generous act, that really serves one purpose: to get to know
people, places, and things that are different.  People around the world learn multiple languages in order to learn more about different cultures.  To understand a different point of view, or in some cases, be able to better argue their own.  The point is, learning a language is stepping outside of your world and stepping into someone else's.  I have been blown away by young people in Italy who spoke perfect English, and invited us to dinner and drinks and to talk politics and lifestyles.  And our ability to speak Spanish here, albeit broken and in the present tense only, has created moments at the SanSe Festival, in Plaza De Armas, at Aqui Se Puede; with perfect strangers whom we now call friends.

NOT USING GOOGLE TRANSLATE:  Esta mucho trabajo.  Pero es necesario cuando viaje aprendir el idioma de la pais.  Muchas personas va a los Estados Unidos.  Y hablamos con ellos en ingles.  Entonces cuando Americanos van a las paises no habla ingles, nececitamos hablar les idioma. O aprende "Hello" "Good Day" "Thank You" "Please".  Cuando trata, muchas personas ayudate y va a aprendir y tiene muchas nuevos amigos y tiempos felices.

From Puerto Rico: "Open your mouth and speak!" Elsa Gomez, Maestra De Espanol

Monday, January 20, 2014

Vieques - Part Two

Scuba diving was certainly a highlight for Jon and the girls during our stay in Vieques, but in usual Kelly-Swaney style we packed in as much as we could while we were there.

Panoramic photo of Red Beach.

Our hosts at the Esperanza Inn gave us the lo down on all of the beautiful beaches.  We visited Red Beach and the (not so) Secret Beach.  The beaches are all part of a protected area on the island. They are pristine with one notable exception.  As I mentioned, the Mosquito Pier is an unfinished US Navy project. At the risk of giving you an uneducated history lesson, the US Navy used Vieques as a testing facility for bombs and other naval exercises.  Therefore, when you go to the beach you are forewarned that if you did not bring it to the beach, do not touch it.  The signs are referring to bombs.  And they are not joking.  Only days after we left Vieques, I saw a story on a Facebook feed from Puerto Rico that I follow.  The video showed the detonation of a bomb which was found days earlier by a snorkler only 20 yards offshore and about 5 feet deep.  How many other snorklers had passed by that same bomb??  There is much controversy about this subject, and I will let those with an interest pursue it independently.
Our secret spot on the secret beach.
You'll notice the open towel for the photographer.

On Sunday night, we booked ourselves on a BioBay tour.  You saddle up in life vests and two man kayaks to head out into protected waters that are filled with dinoflagellates.  Our very educated and entertaining guide told us all about the algae in the water and how they reproduce and thrive and why they are so condensed in certain bays including this one.  But the long and the short of it is - THE WATER GLOWS! Any time you move the water with your hand, or your kayak paddle, or when a fish swims by, the water lights up.  It is brief and therefore almost impossible to get photos, but truly something you need to experience for yourself.

You would think that glowing water under no moon (the best conditions possible), would be the entertainment of the trip.  You would only be partially right.  There were 19 kayaks each with two people - so 38 people and our guide in our group.  Every one of them heard screaming across the water.  During the free exploration when we were allowed to paddle around and watch the fish light up the water and explore the lake, a fish jumped in to Allie's and Caroline's kayak in front of Allie.  Always the narrator, Allie let everyone on the lake know the play by play.

Allie: There's a fish! OMG a fish!  I'm gonna have to grab it.  Yes, I'll grab it.  Oh no, I can't get it.  Don't die fishy!!  I'll get you some water.

At this point we can only hear her.  No one but Caroline can see what she is doing.  Luckily Caroline decided to start shouting out the scene as well.

Caroline: Allie, do not throw water INTO the kayak!!  Stop using your flip flop to get the fish and just pick it up!!

And then we heard it.

Allie: "Oh no, I lost my flip flop!"
Caroline, "Oh my God! Get out of my way."

Splash.  See fish swim.
Allie: Now I only have a flip and no flop :-(

From Puerto Rico: the water is a highlight.

The Second Web Address

The Christmas presents included the aforementioned bottle of sunscreen for the whole family with a web address. The presents also included a bottle of bubbles which had a web address.  The bubbles were for Allie and Caroline, and the web address was for a Scuba company on Vieques, Isla Nena Scuba.  Bryce stayed with us in Puerto Rico for one week, and after he left the girls stayed on for 2 additional weeks.  It was that first weekend with only the girls that we hopped a ferry from Fajardo to the tiny island of Vieques on a Friday evening to stay through Monday.

Jon is scuba certified, and the process is deservedly intense. He encouraged the girls to become certified, but with school and activities that proved to be challenging.  Never to be deterred, Jon signed the girls and he up for a one day instructor-led dive that can be done without being fully certified.  They were up at 7 am and headed to Mosquito Pier. This pier is a gift to Puerto Ricans and tourists alike from the United States Navy.  It's a jetty that extends a 1/2 mile into the ocean.  To the Navy it is an unfinished project, but to marine life it is a playground - therefore, likewise to snorklers and scuba divers.  

Allie started the day very excited and Caroline a little more afraid that equalizing the pressure in her ears would be a challenge.  Jon reports, "She had nothing to worry about!" The instructional part of the day consisted of a two hour tutorial on how the gear works, underwater communication, effects of pressure, and how to handle emergency situations.  From there, the trio and their guide did two dives. The first dive at 25ft remained instructional in nature.  Putting their new skills to the test by getting comfortable underwater, learning how to adjust their buoyancy and finding that sweet spot where your breathing is both controlled and relaxed. The second dive was the reason you go under.  Going further out under the pier and below water from 30 - 45 ft, Jon and the girls swam with sea turtles, saw octopus, and tons and tons of fish. Their favorite was the bold and goofy puffer fish.  Other fish steer clear of the human invaders, but not the puffer fish who swims right up to humans to get their own good look.

As any parent to teenagers knows, the moments you genuinely enjoy your experiences with them can be hard to find.  Jon was thrilled to get to engage in a truly unique experience with the girls and hopes it ignites their flame to get fully certified and experience more locations from under the sea.

Since we're talking about fish and other wildlife....

Things to know about animals on Vieues: 

  • there are wild horses EVERYWHERE.  And people still keep their own horses as a means of transportation. On the Malecon (Spanish for boardwalk) - there are locations to tie up your horse while you get a drink, have dinner, or browse.  
  • Cats, cats, and more cats.  There is no shortage of cats in Puerto Rico, but we got even more up close and personal at our home away from home, The Esperanza Inn, as they are a cat sanctuary.  One cat adopted us and spent most of our stay in our room.
  • And the Roosters...  Those of us who have not lived next to roosters are led to believe that they are countryside alarm clocks, crowing at dawn so we may all get up and seize the day.  Not so!  Roosters crow all day and night long.  In order to get some rest after the first night of learning this fact the hard way, the windows were closed, and the AC was on.
From Vieques - for so many reasons, you don't need a watch.

I apologize that this entry does not have photos.  Caroline has a GoPro underwater camera and did take some really cool shots. The camera is with her in Maine, and when we are reunited, I will add photos to this entry.




Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Priorities

I struggled with whether or not to write a post about this. But then I got all ornery and thought, "It's my blog, and I'll write what I want to!"

Jon and I were in Pueblo the other day. Pueblo is the Hannaford of Puerto Rico, and as a foodie I could not have been more thrilled to find it! While we were there in the household items aisle, I stepped on a scale.  Let me explain....  I am not a scale junkie, and I actually weigh more than people guess due to the fact that there is a lot of muscle on this petite frame.  I take more stock in how my clothes fit and what my energy level is.  Having said that, I do think under these circumstances the scale can be a good gut check.

"These circumstances"

Don't get me wrong, I am loving Puerto Rico, however, these are not a health conscience people.  The diet is predominantly carbs - like overwhelmingly.  From bread, to rice, to fruit, to sweet sweet sweet treats - everywhere.  I am living in a city that offers everything in walking distance and the closest gym is a drive. As much as the Puerto Ricans love to be outside, it's overwhelmingly recreational.  Ok.  Do we have the picture?

Before I proceed, I will say once more - I am loving Puerto Rico and the wonderful, kind people, however, fitness, for so many reasons, is a priority in my life.  I have an active job, an autoimmune disorder that is managed through diet and exercise, and I'm vain!

Back to the scale.  Jon and I both got on, and were both thrilled with the #.  I had not gained or lost a thing, neither had he.  It made me so proud of our choices.  After three weeks here, I have maintained a balance between eating out indulgences and cooking on a regular basis for our family.  Proteins and vegetables.  Jon and I have also maintained our workout regimen.  Total investment of $15 for a yoga mat and a resistance band.  Jon runs regularly enjoying the scenic views of the city and the water.  I have mapped out a two mile walk to the beach, I work out when I get there, jump in the water, and walk home.  Using a combination of purchased items, trees for wall squats, rocks for various exercises, chairs, and other structures, I get in a full body workout three times a week.

Box jumps
Dips
You name it! Curls, Flies, Rows, Shoulder Presses, Squats
Anyone who knows me, knows I preach about diet and exercise.  This blog post is to let you know I practice what I preach.  I want to be a good role model to my kids and to my students.  And if I didn't "walk the walk", I couldn't have climbed those waterfalls, or hiked the rain forest, or played football at the beach with Bryce, or carried my groceries up the San Franciso-esque hill where our apartment resides.  Because of diet and exercise, I am going to be able to take in all that travel has to offer and create memories with my family all while looking pretty darn good in a bikini!!

The View at my gym.

From Puerto Rico - #solutionsoverexcuses

"Oh Sh(bleeeeeeep)t!" - Allie Swaney

Coming to Puerto Rico from late Dec - late Feb, means you get to celebrate many holidays in the land where Tuesday is a reason to party.  Puerto Ricans love festivals and parties and celebrating.  You would think New Year's would be a blowout, and it is in one regard and not in another.  New Year's Eve is not a night to go out and hit the bars and make a fool of yourself here in Puerto Rico.  Here it is a night for family.  As you walk the streets many homes are filled with the sounds of large families eating, singing, dancing, and laughing.  People are dressed up and the settings are elegant, but they are intimate and private.

We dressed up, grabbed a bottle of champagne, and decided to head out. Just as we exited our apartment and hit the street, Allie got her first opportunity to scream the expletive that is the title of this blog.  Puerto Ricans love fireworks, and they will set them off anywhere.  I mean anywhere, as in the car parked next to our apartment as a launching pad.  And the car next to that, and the top of the apartment, etc. etc.  Explosives and shrapnel in all directions gave us beautiful fireworks, and Allie's outbursts, as entertainment.

We headed to Paseo de la Princesa.  And yes, it is as magical as the name sounds.  A long lane covered by beautiful trees and decorated with holiday lights leads you to the fountain and up another lane to a gigantic tree covered in Spanish moss that we have named "The Tree of Life".  We walked out to the end of the pier overlooking the bay.  Champagne poured, countdown clock ticking on the iphone, we exclaimed, "10, 9, 8...."  when the year changed, Allie exclaimed once again as fireworks exploded overhead and across the bay.  It was spectacular as the sky filled with color.



It wouldn't be Puerto Rico without rain, and the heaven's did open up.  We stood under La Puerta de San Juan and waited for it to pass.  When we emerged, we wished Feliz Ano Nuevo to many people with their doors, windows, and hearts open to a new year.

From Puerto Rico - a sparkler isn't going to cut it!

Thursday, January 2, 2014

We're Going UP the Waterfall?


Our trip to Rincon ended, and we headed back to the apartment.  As we lay our heads to sleep, we were sure to set an alarm.  We needed to be up early in clothes that could get wet in order to catch a shuttle to our Rocaliza adventure.  This half day excursion was our Christmas Gift from Nanny and Papa John Swaney.  There are many adventure trips here on Puerto Rico, and Nanny did her research.  She found us a half day trip that took children as young as 9.  This piece of information, led me to falsely believe, and comfort the kids with the notion that this was an easy little adventure for tourists.  Not at all.

Picked up in a large passenger van with two other groups of tourists, a 45 minute drive takes you into the Carite Rain Forest in Caguas.  The tour guides are lively, funny, patriotic gents eager to scare you with stories of snakes falling from trees and aggressive river swimming (all for show), and delight you with stories of the beauty of their home country.

We arrive and you are geared up with a harness and helmet, and told that everything you bring needs to be in a dry bag or leave it in the van.  The hike is intense in the most awesome way.  Mostly vertical, you are climbing UP, yes I said "UP" waterfalls.  Guides in the front and the back manage the ropes system as the hike takes you through the river.  It was no joke.  People fell.  And when I say people, I mean all of us.  We have the bruises and the sore legs and ankles to show for it.  But none of us would have ever turned back.  It was so cool.  The guides are helping you along through hand holds and footholds that you cannot see under the rushing water.  Every time you scale another waterfall you ascend onto another photo worthy plateau.

It was really cool for Jon and I to demand such strength, flexibility, and agility from our somewhat aging bodies.  But what I enjoyed most was watching the kids.  They were by far the youngest of the group, and by far the most capable.  I watched grown adults shake as they pulled themselves up the ropes, and my kids climb like monkeys, fearlessly (well, somewhat fearlessly) up these treacherous rocks.


The hike ends with a triple dose of awesomeness.  1 - you hike into the largest waterfall with a gorgeous, drinkable!! fresh water pool. 2 - you get down the mountain via three sets of zip lines. 3 - at the end of your journey, you have a home cooked meal of chicken, rice and beans, empenadas, and flan.  And you can exercise your option to purchase sangria and coquito.  Which we did.

From Puerto Rico - tourist or not - you're climbing!

About the photos - only after starting this blog, did I realize that pics must be landscape to upload.  Having been taking plenty of landscape photos for future blogs.  Thank for your patience!

These are links from the tour company and an independent review.
Rocaliza Adventure Tours
Puerto Rico Day Trips