Monday, January 20, 2014

Vieques - Part Two

Scuba diving was certainly a highlight for Jon and the girls during our stay in Vieques, but in usual Kelly-Swaney style we packed in as much as we could while we were there.

Panoramic photo of Red Beach.

Our hosts at the Esperanza Inn gave us the lo down on all of the beautiful beaches.  We visited Red Beach and the (not so) Secret Beach.  The beaches are all part of a protected area on the island. They are pristine with one notable exception.  As I mentioned, the Mosquito Pier is an unfinished US Navy project. At the risk of giving you an uneducated history lesson, the US Navy used Vieques as a testing facility for bombs and other naval exercises.  Therefore, when you go to the beach you are forewarned that if you did not bring it to the beach, do not touch it.  The signs are referring to bombs.  And they are not joking.  Only days after we left Vieques, I saw a story on a Facebook feed from Puerto Rico that I follow.  The video showed the detonation of a bomb which was found days earlier by a snorkler only 20 yards offshore and about 5 feet deep.  How many other snorklers had passed by that same bomb??  There is much controversy about this subject, and I will let those with an interest pursue it independently.
Our secret spot on the secret beach.
You'll notice the open towel for the photographer.

On Sunday night, we booked ourselves on a BioBay tour.  You saddle up in life vests and two man kayaks to head out into protected waters that are filled with dinoflagellates.  Our very educated and entertaining guide told us all about the algae in the water and how they reproduce and thrive and why they are so condensed in certain bays including this one.  But the long and the short of it is - THE WATER GLOWS! Any time you move the water with your hand, or your kayak paddle, or when a fish swims by, the water lights up.  It is brief and therefore almost impossible to get photos, but truly something you need to experience for yourself.

You would think that glowing water under no moon (the best conditions possible), would be the entertainment of the trip.  You would only be partially right.  There were 19 kayaks each with two people - so 38 people and our guide in our group.  Every one of them heard screaming across the water.  During the free exploration when we were allowed to paddle around and watch the fish light up the water and explore the lake, a fish jumped in to Allie's and Caroline's kayak in front of Allie.  Always the narrator, Allie let everyone on the lake know the play by play.

Allie: There's a fish! OMG a fish!  I'm gonna have to grab it.  Yes, I'll grab it.  Oh no, I can't get it.  Don't die fishy!!  I'll get you some water.

At this point we can only hear her.  No one but Caroline can see what she is doing.  Luckily Caroline decided to start shouting out the scene as well.

Caroline: Allie, do not throw water INTO the kayak!!  Stop using your flip flop to get the fish and just pick it up!!

And then we heard it.

Allie: "Oh no, I lost my flip flop!"
Caroline, "Oh my God! Get out of my way."

Splash.  See fish swim.
Allie: Now I only have a flip and no flop :-(

From Puerto Rico: the water is a highlight.

The Second Web Address

The Christmas presents included the aforementioned bottle of sunscreen for the whole family with a web address. The presents also included a bottle of bubbles which had a web address.  The bubbles were for Allie and Caroline, and the web address was for a Scuba company on Vieques, Isla Nena Scuba.  Bryce stayed with us in Puerto Rico for one week, and after he left the girls stayed on for 2 additional weeks.  It was that first weekend with only the girls that we hopped a ferry from Fajardo to the tiny island of Vieques on a Friday evening to stay through Monday.

Jon is scuba certified, and the process is deservedly intense. He encouraged the girls to become certified, but with school and activities that proved to be challenging.  Never to be deterred, Jon signed the girls and he up for a one day instructor-led dive that can be done without being fully certified.  They were up at 7 am and headed to Mosquito Pier. This pier is a gift to Puerto Ricans and tourists alike from the United States Navy.  It's a jetty that extends a 1/2 mile into the ocean.  To the Navy it is an unfinished project, but to marine life it is a playground - therefore, likewise to snorklers and scuba divers.  

Allie started the day very excited and Caroline a little more afraid that equalizing the pressure in her ears would be a challenge.  Jon reports, "She had nothing to worry about!" The instructional part of the day consisted of a two hour tutorial on how the gear works, underwater communication, effects of pressure, and how to handle emergency situations.  From there, the trio and their guide did two dives. The first dive at 25ft remained instructional in nature.  Putting their new skills to the test by getting comfortable underwater, learning how to adjust their buoyancy and finding that sweet spot where your breathing is both controlled and relaxed. The second dive was the reason you go under.  Going further out under the pier and below water from 30 - 45 ft, Jon and the girls swam with sea turtles, saw octopus, and tons and tons of fish. Their favorite was the bold and goofy puffer fish.  Other fish steer clear of the human invaders, but not the puffer fish who swims right up to humans to get their own good look.

As any parent to teenagers knows, the moments you genuinely enjoy your experiences with them can be hard to find.  Jon was thrilled to get to engage in a truly unique experience with the girls and hopes it ignites their flame to get fully certified and experience more locations from under the sea.

Since we're talking about fish and other wildlife....

Things to know about animals on Vieues: 

  • there are wild horses EVERYWHERE.  And people still keep their own horses as a means of transportation. On the Malecon (Spanish for boardwalk) - there are locations to tie up your horse while you get a drink, have dinner, or browse.  
  • Cats, cats, and more cats.  There is no shortage of cats in Puerto Rico, but we got even more up close and personal at our home away from home, The Esperanza Inn, as they are a cat sanctuary.  One cat adopted us and spent most of our stay in our room.
  • And the Roosters...  Those of us who have not lived next to roosters are led to believe that they are countryside alarm clocks, crowing at dawn so we may all get up and seize the day.  Not so!  Roosters crow all day and night long.  In order to get some rest after the first night of learning this fact the hard way, the windows were closed, and the AC was on.
From Vieques - for so many reasons, you don't need a watch.

I apologize that this entry does not have photos.  Caroline has a GoPro underwater camera and did take some really cool shots. The camera is with her in Maine, and when we are reunited, I will add photos to this entry.




Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Priorities

I struggled with whether or not to write a post about this. But then I got all ornery and thought, "It's my blog, and I'll write what I want to!"

Jon and I were in Pueblo the other day. Pueblo is the Hannaford of Puerto Rico, and as a foodie I could not have been more thrilled to find it! While we were there in the household items aisle, I stepped on a scale.  Let me explain....  I am not a scale junkie, and I actually weigh more than people guess due to the fact that there is a lot of muscle on this petite frame.  I take more stock in how my clothes fit and what my energy level is.  Having said that, I do think under these circumstances the scale can be a good gut check.

"These circumstances"

Don't get me wrong, I am loving Puerto Rico, however, these are not a health conscience people.  The diet is predominantly carbs - like overwhelmingly.  From bread, to rice, to fruit, to sweet sweet sweet treats - everywhere.  I am living in a city that offers everything in walking distance and the closest gym is a drive. As much as the Puerto Ricans love to be outside, it's overwhelmingly recreational.  Ok.  Do we have the picture?

Before I proceed, I will say once more - I am loving Puerto Rico and the wonderful, kind people, however, fitness, for so many reasons, is a priority in my life.  I have an active job, an autoimmune disorder that is managed through diet and exercise, and I'm vain!

Back to the scale.  Jon and I both got on, and were both thrilled with the #.  I had not gained or lost a thing, neither had he.  It made me so proud of our choices.  After three weeks here, I have maintained a balance between eating out indulgences and cooking on a regular basis for our family.  Proteins and vegetables.  Jon and I have also maintained our workout regimen.  Total investment of $15 for a yoga mat and a resistance band.  Jon runs regularly enjoying the scenic views of the city and the water.  I have mapped out a two mile walk to the beach, I work out when I get there, jump in the water, and walk home.  Using a combination of purchased items, trees for wall squats, rocks for various exercises, chairs, and other structures, I get in a full body workout three times a week.

Box jumps
Dips
You name it! Curls, Flies, Rows, Shoulder Presses, Squats
Anyone who knows me, knows I preach about diet and exercise.  This blog post is to let you know I practice what I preach.  I want to be a good role model to my kids and to my students.  And if I didn't "walk the walk", I couldn't have climbed those waterfalls, or hiked the rain forest, or played football at the beach with Bryce, or carried my groceries up the San Franciso-esque hill where our apartment resides.  Because of diet and exercise, I am going to be able to take in all that travel has to offer and create memories with my family all while looking pretty darn good in a bikini!!

The View at my gym.

From Puerto Rico - #solutionsoverexcuses

"Oh Sh(bleeeeeeep)t!" - Allie Swaney

Coming to Puerto Rico from late Dec - late Feb, means you get to celebrate many holidays in the land where Tuesday is a reason to party.  Puerto Ricans love festivals and parties and celebrating.  You would think New Year's would be a blowout, and it is in one regard and not in another.  New Year's Eve is not a night to go out and hit the bars and make a fool of yourself here in Puerto Rico.  Here it is a night for family.  As you walk the streets many homes are filled with the sounds of large families eating, singing, dancing, and laughing.  People are dressed up and the settings are elegant, but they are intimate and private.

We dressed up, grabbed a bottle of champagne, and decided to head out. Just as we exited our apartment and hit the street, Allie got her first opportunity to scream the expletive that is the title of this blog.  Puerto Ricans love fireworks, and they will set them off anywhere.  I mean anywhere, as in the car parked next to our apartment as a launching pad.  And the car next to that, and the top of the apartment, etc. etc.  Explosives and shrapnel in all directions gave us beautiful fireworks, and Allie's outbursts, as entertainment.

We headed to Paseo de la Princesa.  And yes, it is as magical as the name sounds.  A long lane covered by beautiful trees and decorated with holiday lights leads you to the fountain and up another lane to a gigantic tree covered in Spanish moss that we have named "The Tree of Life".  We walked out to the end of the pier overlooking the bay.  Champagne poured, countdown clock ticking on the iphone, we exclaimed, "10, 9, 8...."  when the year changed, Allie exclaimed once again as fireworks exploded overhead and across the bay.  It was spectacular as the sky filled with color.



It wouldn't be Puerto Rico without rain, and the heaven's did open up.  We stood under La Puerta de San Juan and waited for it to pass.  When we emerged, we wished Feliz Ano Nuevo to many people with their doors, windows, and hearts open to a new year.

From Puerto Rico - a sparkler isn't going to cut it!

Thursday, January 2, 2014

We're Going UP the Waterfall?


Our trip to Rincon ended, and we headed back to the apartment.  As we lay our heads to sleep, we were sure to set an alarm.  We needed to be up early in clothes that could get wet in order to catch a shuttle to our Rocaliza adventure.  This half day excursion was our Christmas Gift from Nanny and Papa John Swaney.  There are many adventure trips here on Puerto Rico, and Nanny did her research.  She found us a half day trip that took children as young as 9.  This piece of information, led me to falsely believe, and comfort the kids with the notion that this was an easy little adventure for tourists.  Not at all.

Picked up in a large passenger van with two other groups of tourists, a 45 minute drive takes you into the Carite Rain Forest in Caguas.  The tour guides are lively, funny, patriotic gents eager to scare you with stories of snakes falling from trees and aggressive river swimming (all for show), and delight you with stories of the beauty of their home country.

We arrive and you are geared up with a harness and helmet, and told that everything you bring needs to be in a dry bag or leave it in the van.  The hike is intense in the most awesome way.  Mostly vertical, you are climbing UP, yes I said "UP" waterfalls.  Guides in the front and the back manage the ropes system as the hike takes you through the river.  It was no joke.  People fell.  And when I say people, I mean all of us.  We have the bruises and the sore legs and ankles to show for it.  But none of us would have ever turned back.  It was so cool.  The guides are helping you along through hand holds and footholds that you cannot see under the rushing water.  Every time you scale another waterfall you ascend onto another photo worthy plateau.

It was really cool for Jon and I to demand such strength, flexibility, and agility from our somewhat aging bodies.  But what I enjoyed most was watching the kids.  They were by far the youngest of the group, and by far the most capable.  I watched grown adults shake as they pulled themselves up the ropes, and my kids climb like monkeys, fearlessly (well, somewhat fearlessly) up these treacherous rocks.


The hike ends with a triple dose of awesomeness.  1 - you hike into the largest waterfall with a gorgeous, drinkable!! fresh water pool. 2 - you get down the mountain via three sets of zip lines. 3 - at the end of your journey, you have a home cooked meal of chicken, rice and beans, empenadas, and flan.  And you can exercise your option to purchase sangria and coquito.  Which we did.

From Puerto Rico - tourist or not - you're climbing!

About the photos - only after starting this blog, did I realize that pics must be landscape to upload.  Having been taking plenty of landscape photos for future blogs.  Thank for your patience!

These are links from the tour company and an independent review.
Rocaliza Adventure Tours
Puerto Rico Day Trips